C Stand Model 1 - Galvanized pipe, top to bottom - Page 2
The parts as listed:
3 Casters with 5/16" thread studs(optional, you can save a little cash if you don't want casters but trust me, they're worth it)
3=3/4" x 12" Pipe Nipple
1=3/4" x 8" Pipe Nipple
1=3/4" x 6" Pipe Nipple
2=3/4" x Close Pipe Nipple
1=3/4" Street 90 Elbow
3=3/4" Street 45 Elbow (read Mods section at the end first)
3=3/4" 45 Elbow
1=3/4" x 36" Pipe Nipple (you may have to have it cut if store doesn't have it)
1=1/2" x 36" EMT Conduit (Comes in 10' lengths, cut with hacksaw (it's real cheap))
1=3/4" x 1/2" Bell Coupling
1=1/2" x 1/4" Bell Coupling
1=5/16" x 3" eye bolt (or 5/16 x 18 knob if you have one)
1=1/2" EMT Conduit Set Screw Male Adapter
1=1/4" x 3" Nipple
All pipe is galvanized as shown but 'black' pipe will work also and is better if light stand will be painted, you'll probably save $5.00 or so too)
You'll need some sort of tools to tighten the pipe. A couple pipe wrenches like the red one above work good. A bench vise and a pipe wrench is even better. In a pinch, a water pump pliers like the blue handled one will work but you won't get the joints as tight. The pipe will likely be greasy and wiping it all down with a rag and some alcohol or degreaser will make the whole thing less messy.
You'll also need some sort of drill, prefer a drill press but a hand drill will do if you take your time.
You'll also need a 5/16 x 18nc tap. I bought a new one with the right size drill bit for $4.50, if you make more than one of these you'll use it over and over again. Don't bother buying a wrench for the tap if you've got a vise grips or crescent wrench, they work just as good. We use 5/16 x 18nc because that's a standard size for handles and such used on commercial light stands.
Assemble the leg parts as shown above. The uppermost leg is a 12" nipple lower and an 8" nipple upper. The middle is a 6" nipple lower and a 12" nipple upper. The lowest leg is a close nipple lower and a 12" nipple upper. Each leg has a 45 elbow in the middle and a 45 street elbow on the end. You need to tighten all the joints as tight as you can get them and still get them to line up (laying them flat on the floor as shown above will show you if all the elbows are lining up).
The central stem is made up of 2 tees separated by a close nipple and a street 90 on the bottom.
Adjust the central stem so that the tees and elbow are approximately 120 degrees apart.
Insert and tighten the assembled legs in the central stem. The caps go on the bottom of the legs and will be drilled and tapped to accept the casters. If you've tightened the joints as tight as you can get them and they try to turn on their own, you might have to drill a hole through the offending joint and put a screw in the hole to keep it from turning. You might also try some 'thread locking' compound on the threads to help lock them. It's VERY IMPORTANT that the joints not turn. If you push this with a light and softbox on it and one of the legs twists, IT MAY TIP OVER. Take the time to drill holes and screw the joints if needed. If you've got a drill press, you can drill a hole in each fitting and tap it for a small machine screw before ever assembling the stand. It's like having 'set screws' in each fitting.